Unlike oils and acrylics, which stay where you put them, watercolor is a blend of subtlety and surprise, with extraordinary interactions between water, tint, and paper. You'll start by learning the basic elements of composition as a foundation for your painting. Then, through a series of landscapes and other subjects of your choosing, you'll develop sensitivity to the medium and begin to understand which techniques achieve the best results. No previous watercolor experience required.
Please bring following supplies to the first class:
PLEASE BE AWARE DIFFFERENT COMPANIES HAVE THEIR OWN NUMBERING SYSTEMS AS TO BRUSH SIZES.
#2, 5,(small) 8 & 10 (medium): The numbers 2 and 5 are generally for detail. The 8 and 10 sizes are for
washes. Look for the brushes that are made of less expensive squirrel hair.
#3 or 4 (Large): Look for the brushes that are made of less expensive squirrel hair.
What you want is cool and warm reds, (Cadmium Red & Alizarin Crimson) yellows, (Cadmium Yellow
& Gamboge) and blues (Ultramarine Blue & Cobalt Blue) as well as colors for the landscapte like the
Greens. Colors to be used for shadows and earth tones are covered by Payne’s Gray, Sepia and
Pads & Blocks
140 pound weight
A block is a pad that has adhesive on all four sides save a small section. The block elininates the need
for a stiff backing. You should know the block is more expensive than the pad. A watercolor pad, on
the other hand, has adhesive only on the top. The pad would need to be supported.
Get the white plastic palettes for watercolor. They come in a rectangular or circular shapes. You can see
your colors better with these than the metal palettes.
Use a non-paper stiff backing for taping watercolor paper to. A cutting board or masonite